Changes in Latitude

Boquete Paradise

2009-10-21T05:16:00.000-07:00

Where to stay in Boquete? An excellent option is ‘Boquete Paradise’ which is like saying ‘Paradise Paradise’. Travelers accustomed to unique inns that delight the senses will be thrilled with the setting of this boutique hotel in Palo Alto, five picturesque minutes from downtown. The rooms and suites are comfortable and well-appointed, but the setting is truly paradise, for many reasons:

· A river runs through it;
· The gardens must be seen to be believed;
· The morning symphony of birds is divine;
· Vistas include coffee plantations and mountains, including Volcan Baru; and,
· A gazebo beckons guests to BBQ and sip wine while enjoying all of the above.

Each suite has two bedrooms with full-size beds and a private, enclosed balcony overlooking this idyllic scene and a kitchenette, for preparing that BBQ in paradise. Upper floor suites #9 and # 11 have vaulted ceilings with loft sleeping quarters (3rd bedrooms) for families with children. Suite #10 is the one ground floor suite and it has private parking very near the entry.

The inn also has seven standard rooms with full-sized beds, for half the price of a suite, and one with twin beds. Each set of two rooms share an enclosed balcony. Instead of kitchenettes found in the suites, rooms include a coffee maker, refrigerator, extra sink, toaster and microwave. Other amenities include satellite tv, dvd/cd players, and wireless internet. The best view rooms are #’s 5, 6, 7 & 8.

Rates include breakfast and the café serves coffee all day, along with beer and soft drinks. This property provides one of the best values in Boquete given its spectacular riverside setting. There are many overpriced lodging options in Boquete, and more expensive options that can justify the expense. There is not, however, a better value for upscale travelers that prefer staying twice as long to paying twice as much per night.

Finally, the manager is a partner in the property, so the service is excellent. Ask for Maky at + 011 (507) 720-2278 or write info@panamatropicalvacations.com

Abroad101: Welcome Abroad: Guest Blog Spotlight: Central America

2009-10-19T05:23:00.000-07:00

Boquete, Chiriqui is ranked #1 on Abroad 101's Spotlight on Central America. Check it out... Abroad101: Welcome Abroad: Guest Blog Spotlight: Central America

Great post, Martha!

For more info on Boquete, and the Valley of Eternal Spring", visit: http://changesinlatitude.org/wordpress/2009/10/volcan-baru/

http://latinamericantours.blogspot.com/2009/10/hostal-boquete.html

http://changesinlatitude.org/wordpress/2009/10/coffee-culture/

Hostal Boquete

2009-10-12T06:01:00.000-07:00

Hostal Boquete is “a charming inn on the river where the world meets”, according to its innkeeper. In a single day I’ve heard Dutch, French, German, Italian, English, and Spanish spoken here, so this description rings true. This inn spins on its own axis with patios, terraces, balconies, hammocks on the river, couches and music in the lobby – all inviting visitors and locals to unwind in a relaxed atmosphere.

Charming? Definitely! Hostal Boquete has been my favorite WiFi hotspot until Internet gets to my new office. I’ve been charmed by Innkeepers Dave, Cristina, Haydee, Josue, Eibar, Yahaira, Katherine & Nemisis. This team runs a comfortable, clean, and fun inn with an excellent café and outdoor bar with the best location in Boquete.

In the past five years, I’ve checked out every lodging, working, and café option in this pueblo. Survey says… this is the best hostel in Boquete, a place where guests join forces in hiking, white water rafting, zip lines, hot springs, and moped touring in the “Valley of Eternal Spring”. Guest’s lodging choices range from shared dorm rooms to private rooms with private baths, in a central downtown location.

It is heartening to watch so many cultures come together in such a special place. The photo above is taken from the bar on the inn’s riverfront "Baricci Café". The menu includes regional favorites along with Italian cuisine, beer and wine, all at good prices. The soothing sound of the Rio Caldera makes this café a river refuge where guests gather and linger to enjoy stunning views. I always leave Hostal Boquete with a smile on my face.

If you find better economy lodging in Boquete, your drinks are on me (local cell 6696.2691). If you agree that Hostal Boquete rocks, hook me up with a sweet spot in a place you know well?

The website is http://www.hostalboquete.com/

See you here… Paz!

Boquete, Chiriqui, Republic of Panama

2009-07-15T10:20:00.000-07:00

I'm in Boquete this month, preparing for my family's move here at the end of summer. I can report that the economy in Chiriqui is strong. While the global economic crisis is having some effect, its not as pronounced as in the USA or Mexico.

Why Boquete? The climate is wonderful here in the "Valley of Eternal Spring". The landscape is gorgeous. The town has everything you need, yet its a very liveable small town. The people and the culture are warm and wonderful. The cost of living is reasonable and the economy is strong.

Boquete is in the shadow of Volcan Baru, the highest peak in C. America. At two miles in altitude, you can see both the Caribbean & the Pacific from its peak, on a clear day. With only 50 miles between the two coasts bisected by the Talamanco mountains, there is a constant sea breeze passing through this the Valley of Boquete. People here wear sweaters and jackets in the mornings and evenings, but its perfectly warm 365 afternoons/year. Want heat? It's a short drive to the beaches of either coast.

The landscape is lush rainforest. Flowers are everywhere. Some of the best coffee in the world grows in and around Boquete, in the shade of fruit tree. Fresh produce is always available. If you drop a seed or stick a branch in the ground, it grows because the rich, volcanic soil is extremely fertile. Here you can find some of the cleanest air and water in the world.

The town has a refreshing diversity of culture, entertainment, fine cuisine, and shopping outlets for its size. There are eco-tours, river rafting opportunitities, great hikes, a zip line rain forest canopy tour. People walk everywhere, but taxi rides to most areas are less than a dollar. You can find lattes made from beans that consistently place 1st, 2nd, or 3rd in world cupping contests at one-third the price of Starbuck's over-roasted beans from unsustainable sources. (To order Boquete beans roasted and shipped to your door today, contact Seth and select "Casa Ruiz".)

Rumor has it that Hondurans are the friendliest people in Latin America but Panamanians are equally open, friendly, and good-natured. Panama has the highest literacy rate in Latin America and Boquete has excellent schools. The children safely roam about town and they are multilingual and multicultural. In addition to the beautiful culture of locals, there are many transplants in Boquete from around the world. Here Panamanians peacefully coexist with Europeans, N. & S. Americans, and other expats. You will hear French, English & German in the streets of Boquete on a daily basis. There is an excellent language school called Habla Ya where many pilgrims study Spanish, my family included.

Above is a photo of our new home, with Sr. Nicolas Guerra, an extraordinary coffee farmer and first-class gentleman. I am looking forward to driving from Seattle and pulling into the new driveway for the first time around Sept. (The family will follow by plane.) We're located on the edge of National Park Vocan Baru, very near the Costa Rican border, where we hope to establish a sanctuary for healing arts and wellness in the rainforest to detox from consumer culture and grow organic coffee, chocolate, fruits & vegetables. Come visit and hike with us into the International Park Amistad (Costa Rica & Panama), an UNESCO World Heritage Site, and summit Volcan Baru!

Planning to Drive the Pan-American Highway

2009-06-02T11:08:00.000-07:00

Note: This blog will serve as Mango Steve's travel journal beginning with a drive from Seattle through C. America;

Changes in Latitude's regular Latin America blog has moved to www.ChangesInLatitude.org/wordpress

Travelers investing the two weeks required to drive from the U.S./Mexico border through C. America tend to do their homework. When its your turn to drive the Pan-American Highway, check out Drive Me Loco, an online travel guide that is updated frequently. There is also an eBook with details on roadtripping through Mexico and C. America. I've driven all over Mexico and this guide is worthwhile.

Two weeks is the time required to drive (not enjoy) Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. It is a good idea to allow another two weeks so you can drive every other day, leaving time for exploring the countryside.

That's my plan and I'm sticking to it. Our destination is Parque Amistad, an international park in the Talamanca Mountains and an UNESCO World Heritage Site... my family's new home in the rain-forested shadow of Volcan Baru. (From it's peak, you can see the Pacific and the Caribbean - check out the photos in the last link.)

Boomers Retiring Outside the USA

2009-04-15T08:15:00.000-07:00

A new online community and social network was launched today. Niche portal "Boomers Abroad" is focused on baby boomers retiring outside the USA, notably in Latin America.

The number of Americans and Canadians living abroad is approximately 7 million, twice the population of Chicago and greater than that of 33 U.S. States, according to the Washington Post. This number is expected to more than double within ten years. In the next 20 years, 100 million N. American baby boomers are going to retire. "Five million baby boomers turn age 60 each year, 10,000 per day, eight per minute, and scores of them are purchasing property abroad as vacation homes or investment homes", according to the company’s press release dated today.

Founder Luis Miranda shares the Boomers Abroad vision, “Using the online community model, our goal is to provide the necessary information, education, guidance, resources, tools and alternatives to start boomers down the path of discovering and understanding all that living, retiring and investing abroad has to offer. Everybody learns from everybody. We understand the proven power of collaboration. It is collective wisdom.”

Explore this new community at http://www.boomersabroad.com/ Photo courtesy of Cristina Berg.

Costa Rica's best hotel near San Jose

2009-03-25T10:55:00.001-07:00

Many visitors head straight to beaches or rainforests when arriving in Costa Rica. The Central Valley has much to offer, however. Linger here on your next visit.

The home of Glenn & Teri Jampol is many things. It is a gourmet bistro bar. It is a boutique hotel, the best near San Jose. It is a coffee plantation. It is tropical gardens with foot paths and fruit orchards. It is a luxurious spa. It is Finca Rosa Blanca, the first hotel in Costa Rica to win a 100% sustainability rating.

To learn more about this spectacular hideaway in Santa Bárbara, Heredia, visit http://www.fincarosablanca.com/ Plan on staying awhile. You will not want to leave. Check out the inn's list of activites before you go. Make sure you plan dinner outside at sunset. The views overlooking the valley are breathtaking.

Guanajuato's Cervantino Festival: Oct. 2009

2009-03-23T10:33:00.001-07:00

Guanajuato is Mexico’s most charming small city. It is European in its layout and architecture, with dozens of plazas connected by pedestrian walkways. Cafés spill out into vibrant streets and plazas. There is always music in the air. At night, student choir groups wander with guitars and serenade people of all ages, who are dining, sharing a park bench, or strolling while holding hands. Guanajuato is a very romantic city.

Everywhere there are staircases leading to colorful residences. The children are laughing, genuinely happy. Near the plazas, produce stands offer fresh fuits and artisans show their crafts. The climate is, like the city, enchanting. You’ll find art galleries and boutiques along hundreds of alleyways. Guanajuato has something for everyone. It's the perfect place to take a Spanish Immersion Course.

The best time to visit Guanajuato is during the Cervantino Festival, named in honor of Cervantes, author of 'Don Quixote'. 2009’s celebration of music and the arts will be Oct 14. – Nov. 2. Ask us to plan your journey now; every room will be booked by summer. People travel from all over the world to Guanajuato every October. One visit and you'll know why!

Legend of Tequila & The Finest Blue Agave Nectar

2009-03-21T13:57:00.000-07:00

In the village of Magdalena, Jalisco, Mexico, “El Caudillo” is produced by Cooperativa Tequilera la Magdalena S.C. de R.L.

“El Caudillo” translates from Spanish as “the chief”. Not just any chief; a revolutionary chief. El Caudillo is an ultra premium tequila double distilled then carefully aged in white oak barrels previously used for maturing bourbon, imparting a complex golden color and oak flavor, before being bottled. Hail to the chief!

Other brands produced and bottled by this cooperative include Sangre Azteca and Pueblo Mágico. The town of Tequila is a "Pueblo Mágico", meaning "Magical Village", a place with symbolism, legends, and history according to Mexico’s tourism agency. There are three other Pueblos Mágicos in Jalisco. Visit them all. Book a flight into Guadalajara; board the tequila train; go to Magdalena. This village's amazing tequilia cooperative does not export its spirits to the USA or Canada … yet. Look for this to change in 2009.

If you research Magdalena on http://www.tequila.net/, you may be misled that “the name Magdalena is Xochitepec, which means the place next to the hill of flowers.” This is not true. Magdalena is a Spanish version of the Hebrew name “Magdalene” found in many languages. “Xochitepec” comes from the Nahuatl language and means “on the hill of flowers”. The town of Xochitepec is 300 miles away, near Cuernavaca, and has little to do with Magdalena, except they both have hills with flowers.

Let’s get back to tequila. The region surrounding the village of Tequila in Jalisco, Mexico is the only place where tequila is produced, as champagne comes only from the province of Champagne, France. Magdalena is just minutes from the magical village of Tequila. This is the place where the finest blue agave is harvested for El Caudillo. Magdalena's volcanic soil has produced the finest agave in Jalisco since this succulent plant was commercialized around 1600, when the first tequila distillery was established. In 1621 the oldest recorded description of tequila was insightful: "wine clearer than water, but strong as liquor" (from Nueva Galicia's Domingo Lázaro).

This early description refers to blanco, silver tequila, tequila that was not aged in wood. Purists insist blue agave suffers from wood flavor. Others argue the opposite, that reposado, gold tequila, is the finest. This argument will never be settled. Why should it be? With a cigar, reposado añejo is sublime. With food, a fine blanco is divine. Why argue?

The favorite tequilas according to a poll of 3,402 aficionados in the USA: 1) Patron; 2) Don Juilo; and, 3) Don Valente. El Caudillo is better than all three according to aficionados in Mexico, where they know tequila better than the average gringo. El Caudillo was not included in the poll, because it is not yet available in the U.S. The history of tequila in Mexico is rich and fascinating. The origin of the blue agave begins with Aztecs deities. Aztecs fermented agave long before the Spanish arrived.

The goddess of agave is Mayahuel, the young and beautiful Aztec woman who gave birth to the first blue agave. She left home to marry Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec god of redemption. Both of them turned into two branches of a leafy tree so they would not be found by their terrible grandmother, who according to legend, ordered their execution. Quetzalcoatl lived, but Mayahuel died. In the place where she was buried, the first agave plant grew. It was struck by a lightning bolt from a great storm sent by the enraged gods. A fire started.

From beneath the thorny leafs emerged a seductive nectar from the heart of first agave. This is why fine tequila provides a mystical experience. To drink "Sangre Azteca" is to drink from the plant nourished by "Aztec blood". To taste "El Caudillo" is to taste the nectar of the Aztec goddess Mayahuel, bride of the god of redemption. Her revolutionary spirit inspired blue agave and rebels such as Pancho Villa, Emiliano Zapata, and others.

Today, the spirit of the Aztec goddess continues to grow in the hills of Magdalena, the Pueblo Mágico of Tequila in the highlands of Jalisco.

Plan Columbia

2009-03-08T19:35:00.000-07:00

Of all the good and bad deeds the USA performs in Latin America, spraying herbicide on coca plants is, perhaps, the worst. Indigenous peoples chew coca leaves as part of their culture. Food is also grown in these fields and in adjacent fields, and herbicides are subject to over spray. The chemicals are carried by the wind into rural villages. Rains carry the poison downhill and downriver, tainting the soil and the water supply.

It is unethical and immoral to continue this practice. People live in these fields, as you can see in this photo from the highlands of Columbia, recently fumigated by crop dusters. For more on Columbia's resistance to coca fumigation, listen to this NPR report and check out related NPR stories.

The "war on drugs" has spent billions of dollars in the past decade with significant investment in the spraying of chemicals on rural food crops, women, children, and nearby villages. This practice is funded by the USA and is carried out by its agents, and agents trained by the USA. Between Plan Columbia and the Merida Initiative (Plan Mexico), the USA is now spending billions annually and accomplishing little outside of increasing violence in Latin America, moving coca production into national parks where aerial fumigation is banned, and filling courts and jails with peace-loving marijuana smokers.

The street price and quality of cocaine and marijuana remain unchanged. The current drug strategy amounts to prohibition. History is clear on how this strategy worked with alcohol - it failed. It is also unethical and immoral to continue wasting limited funds on a failed military strategy to continue this war indefinitely. The concept of legalizing or decriminalizing marijuana is gaining traction with many law enforcement policy makers given the failure of the war on drugs. The advantage of legalization is that it would provide a tax windfall for social programs and education.

In the meantime, it would be beneficial for the 111th Congress to make it illegal to spray herbicides on rural fields, regardless of what is grown there. Such a ban would logically extend to the USA funding fumigation. We have one planet and it came with marijuana and coca plants. It did not come with herbicides. Write your representatives in Congress. Chemicals sprayed on innocents and their countryside and crops should not be a strategy in the war on drugs. America is better than this.

Grace in Latin America

2009-03-04T18:54:00.000-08:00

Grace is an appropriate name for reflection before a meal. It is an entirely graceful gesture to pause before eating, to consider what is involved in bringing health to those with whom we share food.

The Spring 2009 issue of Yes! magazine shared the following translation of Grace heard in Latin America.

To those who have hunger, give bread.

To those who have bread, give the hunger for justice.

This sentiment was echoed by Brazil's Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva when he said upon being elected President, "If by the end of my term of office, every Brazilian is able to have three meals a day, I will have accomplished my mission in life."

Lula is the only leader from Latin America to rank on the Newsweek 50 Global Elite list of the most influential leaders in the world. Newsweek noted, "Brazil, once at the edge of ruin, now has $207 billion in Treasury reserves and the lowest inflation rate in the developing world. Thanks to Lula's fiscal smarts, Brazil is among the world's healthiest emerging economies."

Nearing the end of his 2nd term in office, Lula enjoys an 80% approval rating. For those still hungry in Brazil, you have good reasons for hope. At grace tomorrow, may the world share in your hopes for Lula to accomplish his life's mission during his final year in office.

Spanish Film Stars

2009-02-23T10:37:00.000-08:00

Last night Penelope Cruz was the first Spanish actress to win an Oscar, although she was nominated in 2007 for best actress in Pedro Almodóvar’s film, Volver. Almodóvar, an Oscar winning director, is also from Spain. Cruz won best supporting actress for her role in Vicky Cristina Barcelona. Her co-star in this film, Javier Bardem, was the first actor from Spain to win an Oscar (last year).

The 81st Academy Awards reflect a recent move in Hollywood toward recognizing international films and collobarating with filmmakers globally. This is because many of the best movies in the world now come from outside Hollywood. It is also a matter of survival. Prior to its more global focus, Oscar honors were becoming increasingly irrelevant, seen as Hollywood talking to itself while the world’s best filmmakers and performers focused on other awards, leaving the Academy Awards behind.

Spanish Comments at the Oscars

In keeping with its new international theme, one of Penelope’s Oscar presenters and this year’s best actress both hail from Europe. Awards went to German, French, Japanese and Indian film projects. The show’s host was Australian. We heard many languages and accents at the 81st Oscars. Penelope Cruz gave part of her acceptance speech in Spanish after saying, "this is a moment of unity for the world because art, in any form, will always be our universal language".

She added "Todos los que desde España ahora estén compartiendo este momento conmigo y sientan que esto también es de ellos, se los dedico. Y a todos los actores de mi país. Muchisimas gracias.” Penelope's remarks translate to “All the people of Spain now share this moment with me and feel that this is theirs also, so I dedicate it to them. To all of the actors of my country, thanks a lot.”

Cruz stated earlier, “I cannot talk about great female characters without thanking my friend Pedro Almodóvar for having made me part of so many of his adventures. Almodóvar praised Cruz afterwards, by noting her history of "jumping head first and without a parachute, and taking on very risky roles. I cried with joy when I heard her name after the classic line, and the Oscar goes to…”

New Latin American Films

This year Cruz stars in the Almodóvar film Los Abrazos Rotos (Broken Embraces), opening next month. It is a tale of dangerous love.

Penelope also has a role in Manolete, a biography of bullfighter Manuel Laureano Rodríguez Sánchez. She plays the famous bullfighter’s lover. Manolete is also set to open next month.

Che is in theatres now – an epic film about the Argentine doctor, Ernesto “Che” Guevara, who helped Castro launch his Cuban revolution. “Che” is played by Puerto Rican actor Benicio del Toro, who won an Oscar for best supporting actor for his role in Traffic (speaking Spanish). His new film is 4.5 hours long and can be seen as two films, The Argentine and The Guerilla. For a primer, watch The Motorcycle Diaries.

There are hundreds of Spanish language films to enjoy, and they can help people learn Spanish. One of the best is Mar Adentro (The Sea Inside), a film about what makes life worth living, starring Javier Bardem. For dozens of excellent movie options from Latin America, visit Vistawide's Spanish Language Film Index.

Baja Sur has Todos Santos at its Heart

2009-02-14T08:38:00.000-08:00

Baja California Sur has the lowest population density of any state in Mexico with one-half million residents. The history of tourism in Baja Sur dates back to 1948, when wealthy American actors like John Wayne and Bing Crosby built the first resort on the Sea of Cortez, south of La Paz. Other luxury resorts followed until the highway from San Diego was finished in 1973, opening the door for automobile tourists. Today there is something for everyone in Baja Sur, especially fresh fish, fruits and vegetables.

Large scale farming on this arid peninsula dates back to the 1950’s when cotton was the main crop. One of the oldest export farms in Baja Sur is in San Juan de los Planes. This valley, “Valle de los Planes” is home to an asparagus farm in San Juan de Los Planes, near the first resort. It was founded by Guido Natali of Italy, who came to the area in 1958 to train local farmers for the Agricola San Vicente company. Near Valle de los Planes are the beaches of El Sargento and La Ventana where wind surfers and kite surfers enjoy the waves and strong winds. There are also estuaries with perfect beaches and warm, shallow water for swimming with small children.

Across the peninsula on the Pacific Ocean you can swim with the whales at Lopez Mateos. Whales can be seen breaching the waters just off both coasts. In the center of the Baja peninsula, the Sierra la Laguna mountain range forms a Biosphere Reserve which feeds surrounding agricultural valleys and tourism developments with fresh water. This Biosphere is the largest protected area in Mexico and one of the largest in Latin America. Its mountains are forested with pine and oak woods, with oases of palms. Its villages present excellent opportunities for hiking and birding, or just escaping the desert heat.

On the southern tip of the peninsula you’ll find Los Cabos, where Sammy Hagar built his Cabo Wabo nightclub and restaurant. Decades later, celebrities still flock to Baja. The main tourist areas are Los Cabos and La Paz. Between the two lies the charming artist colony of Todos Santos, on the Pacific Ocean. This is the best place to stay to be ‘in the center of it all’ while enjoying the “onda” (vibe) of authentic Mexico. This halfway point in one hour from either of the two main tourist areas. Todos Santos is home to orchards and organic farms in the shadow of the Sierra la Laguna Biosphere. These add pastoral views to this unique coastal village, like the one pictured above.

Todos Santos is home to 6000 artists, expats, and locals. The rich and varied agricultural communities between Todos Santos and La Paz produce citrus, mangos, chile peppers, herbs, corn, chick-pea, melons, tomato, papaya and asparagus – to name the most visible crops. Still, the peninsula is most famous as a surfing and deep sea fishing paradise. Everyone here enjoys fresh fish, fruits and vegetables daily.

***

Posted from Cafelix, Todos Santos, Baja Sur

Organic in Mexico

2009-02-06T14:10:00.000-08:00

Worldwide, 77 million acres of land are certified organic. In Italy and many northern European countries, organic land represents roughly one-quarter of total farm land. (Source: IFOAM) Helga Willer of FiBL presented the latest figures on organic farming worldwide at the BioFach Congress 2009 in Germany.

In Latin America, Uruguay has the highest percentage of organic farm land – much of it in urban areas. Even their wool is certified organic. But Uruguay is not close enough to the USA to maintain a low carbon footprint for agricultural exports. Organic consumers are very interested in regionally produced foods.

My partners and I are visiting organic farmers in Mexico to discuss organizing a program to lift awareness among U.S. retailers regarding “Organic in Mexico”. Many organic exporters are close to large population centers in the USA. Climate, soil, and affordable farm labor are factors favorable to organic farmers south of the border. Virtually all of Mexico’s certified organics are exported.

In many areas of northern Mexico, certification is a fast track process because inspectors find zero residual fertilizer and insecticide levels in the soil. The reason is simple - farmers haven’t the money to spend on chemicals for their crops.

In 2000 Mexico placed 16th in the world and fifth in Latin America for organic land under production. Unfortunately, Argentina’s 3 million hectares certified organic includes unmanaged range land, so the statistic is misleading. “The value of organic production in 2000 was $150 million from Mexico, five times greater than Argentina’s, which puts Mexico second only to Brazil in total value of organic production in Latin America”, according to agriculture researcher Don Lotter from Davis, California.

Mexico’s domestic demand is still small; however, the value of organic production in Mexico is expanding at twice the rate of the USA’s. Coffee is Mexico’s largest organic crop. For organic coffee from Mexico, fresh roasted the day you order it, visit http://www.uniquecoffee.com/ - Seth Appell has been importing organic coffee for decades. Buying organic coffee from Latin America helps small rural growers more than most foods you can buy. "Over 50,000 small farmers, with an average holding of 2 hectares produce over two-thirds of organic production value in Mexico. Since it is far beyond the abilities of a producer of that size to seek individual certification, certification is done by farmer groups and cooperatives", states Lotter.

We’ll be following in Mr. Lotter’s footsteps as we meet with growers this week. We highly recommend Don’s field notes from 2004 focused on Del Cabo Cooperative, a 300-family project from Baja's organic gardens.

Tearing Down Fences in Cuba ...and Beyond

2009-01-21T15:08:00.001-08:00

President Obama took an early first step on his promise to close the Guantánamo Bay detention camp. On his first day in office he directed the military courts to halt prosecutions of all detainees held unlawfully by the Bush Administration, until a proper and legal prosecution can be mounted, where supported by the evidence.

President Obama is expected to issue an executive order on Jan. 22nd to close the detention camp. Some of the 240 detainees have been held for seven years without having charges filed against them. Some were detained as adolescents. Only 3 detainees have been convicted of crimes since 2001.

The White House draft of the executive order says closing the facility “would further the national security and foreign policy interests of the United States and the interests of justice, stating that the detention facilities at Guantánamo for shall be closed as soon as practicable, and no later than one year from the date of this order.” (Source: AP)

Unlike Mr. Bush, President Obama has a background in constitutional law. From this perspective, President Obama deems the Bush Administration’s special military prosecutions lacking in basic protections of the American legal and traditional military justice systems. Under existing laws, much of the evidence gathered from detainees is inadmissible due to the Bush administration's practice of torture during interrogations, in violation of Geneva Conventions.

Fidel Castro stated that Barack Obama "seems like a man who is absolutely sincere", according to Argentina President Cristina Fernandez who met with him today in Havana. She added, "Fidel believes in Obama".

President Obama’s actions this week begin to restore the USA’s reputation in Cuba, Latin America, and the world. In his inaugural address, he stated "we reject as false the choice between our safety and our ideals".

Sections of Mr. Bush’s fence along the USA/Mexico border may be the next to fall under President Obama’s ax. Construction was delayed last year in areas with sensitive habitat, and where land owners filed court appeals. Many miles of new fencing already divide communities that existed long before current political lines were drawn, and the border fence has been compared to the Berlin Wall by once-integrated binational border communities.

The Bush administration ordered (but did not build) fencing over wetland habitat in the Lower Rio Grande Valley, "a proposed National Heritage Area", according to Los Caminos del Rio Executive Director Eric Ellman. If the river valley is fenced as proposed by Mr. Bush, Texas will effectively cede a national treasure to Mexico.

Chile Peppers - A Natural High

2009-01-11T23:34:00.000-08:00

Capsaicin is the active ingredient in peppers, which come from the genus capsicum. Hot varieties of capsicum are called chilies. In addition to bolstering the body’s immune system, they cause the release of endorphins. The result is morphine-like pain relief and an increase in heart rate and circulation. Nerve response is affected. Adrenaline production is stimulated. You get high on chilies. You want more.

Worldwide, people want a lot more chilies these days. Global consumption of chilies is rising rapidly. Chiles have been a staple in Latin America, India and Asia for centuries. Decades ago, grocery stores in the southwest USA began carrying a greater volume of more varieties. The 21st Century has seen this rise in popularity spread to the rest of North America and Europe. Chefs are spicing up traditionally bland recipes, and food producers are adding chilies to a wide range of products such as jams and chocolate.

Dr. Andrew Weil published his study of the physiological effect of chilies in his first book, The Marriage of the Sun and the Moon. “The effect of capsaicin on the oral membranes is spectacular. A person uninitiated into the mysteries of chili eating who bites down on a really peppy capsicum pod may exhibit all the symptoms of furious rabies. It is difficult to convey to such a sufferer the truth that relief comes only of eating more chilies, but that is the case. Water makes the agony worse. The only real help comes of plunging in and developing tolerance to the effect.”

According to herbalist Jethro Kloss, author of Back to Eden, “There is, perhaps, no other article which produces so powerful an impression on the animal frame that is so destitute of all injurious properties. Capsicum seems almost incapable of abuse, for however great the excitement produced by it, this stimulant prevents that excitement subsiding so suddenly as to induce any great derangement of the equilibrium of the circulation. It produces the most powerful impression on the surface yet never draws a blister on the stomach, yet never weakens its tone."

The rush that comes from eating chilies is what keeps aficionados coming back for more. The eyes light up, nasal passages and the respiratory tract are cleared, concentration is increased, the liver is cleansed, and perspiration clears the pores of toxins and acts to cool the skin. Chilies deliver more vitamin C than citrus, bolstering the immune system. In the end, a sublime sense of well being comes from eating hot chilies.

This great pleasure has been sustained in Latin America for 8000 years, and cultivated for 5000, according to Dr. Wiel’s research. “It is a sensible remedy because chili brings a great deal of blood to the surface of mucous membranes, and increased blood supply should promote healing.” In 1493 historian Peter Mart reported that Columbus had discovered peppers more pungent than those of Asia, and within a few years the plants reached the Far East. They established themselves so well in SE Asia and India that some early botanists thought they were native there!

Chilies are yet another example of the wonderful gifts Latin America continues to provide to the world. You can grow chile peppers in your home year round with a heat lamp. To order chile pepper plants for your home or garden, visit http://www.chileplants.com/

Sharing the Wealth

2009-01-06T12:17:00.000-08:00

The measurement that most differentiated the USA and Canada from countries in Latin America, once upon a time, was the size and power of the middle class. As this difference continues to erode, a bit of soul searching is in order. Overall, Latin America's middle class has grown in the past decade, while the USA's continues to contract in size and purchasing power.

Last year I reported on the increasing tendency among the majority of Latin American countries to lean left politically. Now the USA will inaugurate its 44th president amidst its own profound shift to the left. The 2008 election was a massive rejection of trickle-down economics, a theory that led to enormous global problems for 2009 and beyond.

U.S. workers are earning less while their CEO’s have earned pay increases equivalent to more than 900% since 1970, even while bankrupting their companies. The average hourly wage rate has failed to keep up with inflation over the past four decades. In other words +900% for CEOs and +0 for workers. Source: Paul Krugman, sole 2008 recipient of the Nobel Prize in Economics.

And deregulation has enabled record-breaking corporate bankruptcy rates. The most publicized of 2008’s systematic failures occurred in the investment banking sector. This led to a trillion dollar taxpayer bailout which is now spilling over into the manufacturing sector. Add to this billions of dollars in bankruptcy filings from home-builders and media conglomerates. Consider bankrupt retailers such as Sharper Image, Mervyn’s, Linens & Things, and Circuit City.

The travel industry has been hit particularly hard with bankruptcies such as Aloha Airlines, ATA, Frontier Air, and Advantage Rental Car. In my holiday travels I have observed stunning vacancy rates at my favorite beachfront hotels.

Clearly, Henry Ford was correct to encourage corporations to pay their workers a good wage if they hope for the general public to afford their products. A free market is of little value when sellers can’t find buyers. Economic “trickle-down theory” has been proven to be of very little value, based on 38 years of stagnant hourly wages. In this context, a political shift to left is inevitable.

In 2009 the USA joins its hemispheric neighbors in embracing the enlightened self-interest of “sharing the wealth”, a necessity explained to ‘Joe the Plumber’ by then-Senator Obama. Government regulation is obviously necessary at some greater level than has been advocated by Wall Street lobbyists. We don’t have to call it socialism. We do need to recognize what we have in common with our neighbors and work together for a better tomorrow.
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In the immortal words of Hanna-Barbera's Snagglepuss (pictured) ... "Exit, stage left already!"

Message from the Heart of the World

2008-12-19T08:41:00.000-08:00

Recent reports detail how Latin America is taking a leadership role on climate change. New data from the Word Bank quantifies this region’s leadership in reducing the level of greenhouse gases pumped into the atmosphere. Latin America’s efforts go beyond many government’s efforts, including most G-7 nations; and, notably, the world’s two largest emerging economies.

Carbon dioxide emissions in Latin America are 74% lower, per unit of power, than China & India’s emissions. Why? Hydroelectric power and bio fuel usage are two areas where Latin America has pioneered advantages. It is with enlightened self-interest that countries like Brazil and Mexico tackle environmental challenges. Brazil’s Amazon Basin and Mexico’s Gulf Coast are critical habitats threatened by global warming.

Such habitats are critical because their disappearance would trigger greater global warming. Already the conversion of Amazon rainforest habitat to farms represents 50% of Brazil’s total emissions. The world average for emissions from deforestation is 17%. New World Bank data predicts crop failures caused by global warming will cut farm revenue in half as soon as the year 2100.

Two other critical habitats in Latin America are the glaciers in Patagonia and the barrier reefs along C. America’s Caribbean coast. In Belize, the rising ocean temperature is causing coral in the world’s second largest reef system to emit algae that threaten the coral that produce them. Honduras is experiencing similar degradation off the coast of the Bay Islands.

The world’s most powerful economies are being invited by Latin American nations to lead developing economies on issues related to climate change. For now, Latin America is providing much needed leadership by way of example.

Climate change warnings have been coming from Latin America for decades. . The Kogi sounded this alarm in 1990, long before Al Gore redefined the problem. Columbia’s Kogi civilization has avoided contact with industrialized society (much like the Amish). A typical Kogi village appears in the photo above. Like the Amish, the Kogi seek balance with nature.

The Kogi view themselves as “elder brothers” to modern man, having descended from the Tairona civilization which dates back to the 1st Century. They existed and thrived long before their lands were decimated by “younger brothers” of colonizing civilizations arriving in the region more than 1,000 years later. The Kogi see themselves as custodians of our planet and meditate on its future. They see climate change because their mountain is dying. Their mountain lies in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta near Columbia’s border with Venezuela, the highest coastal mountain in the world.

The Kogi do not see us as sleeping (as some Hindu and Oriental religions do); they see their little brothers as dead or dying, as “shadows of the energy of what they could be”, according to Drunvalo Melchizedek. This is because the Kogi have witnessed the destruction of mother Earth caused by industrialized cultures. The Kogi invited NPR to broadcast their message which translates as "Younger brother, you are killing our mother".

The Bush Administration ignored the climate change alarm, while Latin American governments continued to take and recommend actions that will heal the ecology that sustain us. To learn more, see the BBC film “Message from the Heart of the World” by making a donation to the Tairona Heritage Trust. Also, read the book “The Heart of the World” for the story told by The Kogi Mamas (priests) to Alan Ereira.

Brazil & Mexico Emerging on Global Issues of Climate & Economic Growth

2008-12-14T08:13:00.002-08:00

The President of Brazil recently proposed a framework for establishing new global financial systems in the face of global failures by the G-7 industrialized nations. He presented this proposal at last month’s G-20 summit. President Lula wants to see the G-7 expanded to include Brazil, the world’s 10th largest economy, along with Mexico and other developing nations.

Brazil is also requesting greater say with the International Monetary Fund and World Bank. “Brazilians view the current economic crisis as an opportunity” according to Brazil expert Jeffery Carson. They want to see Brazil “in a leadership position on behalf of poor countries. Brazil has a strong fiscal standing with $200 billion in foreign reserves to address the global meltdown.

After towing the line with IMF guidelines for decades, many Latin American economies are at least as solid as the USA’s nose diving economy. In addition to fiscal strength, Latin American countries are important producers feeding much of world demand for food and fuel.

Brazil is the world’s #1 exporter of orange juice, bio fuels, poultry, beef and coffee. It produces more iron ore than the USA and is fast approaching our levels of grain exports. Mexico is the fruit and vegetable basket of the USA. Venezuela is the world’s #5 oil exporter with a proposal to create an alternative to the World Bank.

Brazil also wants more influence within the United Nations. President Lula is quick to point out that it has one of the world’s largest stable democracies.

Mexico has recently taken a global warming leadership role with a plan to cut greenhouse gas emission levels in half by 2050, making it the only developing country to set emissions caps below existing levels. The plan is intended as a wakeup call to the G-7 and includes emissions limits on its main polluting industries which produce cement and electricity and refine oil. Companies will be able to sell unused emission allowances.

Rich industrial countries are facing growing criticism for damaging international financial markets and the environment through their unwillingness to address the interwoven nature of the global economy and ecosystems that draw their own borders. Brazil and Mexico won praise at recent UN talks in Poland attended by 145 environment ministers. Meanwhile, the USA and UK remain focused on their financial catastrophes with the notable exception of California.

California just adopted the USA’s most comprehensive climate plan. Gov. Schwarzenegger believes “these regulations will spur the state’s economy and serve as a model for the rest of country. When you look at today’s depressed economy, green tech is one of the bright spots out there, which is yet another reason we should move forward on our environmental goals.” California’s cap and trade system is similar to Mexico’s in that it provides companies financial incentives for reducing carbon emissions.

President Bush circumvented California’s tough 2006 restrictions on auto pollution by blocking the law from taking effect, but California officials trust that President-Elect Obama will remove this obstacle to clean air and growth in the state’s green economy industries. According to environmental ministers to the UN, “the attitude of rich countries borders on the immoral and is counterproductive”.

Brazil and Mexico are seeking a larger role in convincing an expanded G-7 that they can aid ailing international markets and reduce havoc from carbon emissions. The UN Secretary-General urged leading economies to provided real leadership on these two issues by answering the calls of emerging economies. He stating in Poland, “The economic crisis is serious; yet when it comes to climate change, the stakes are far higher.”

Mexico's Hotel Santa Fe in Puerto Escondido

2008-11-23T10:16:00.001-08:00

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My favorite hotels in Mexico have that authentic Mexican ambiance found no where else in the world. You can enjoy French and Italian-inspired hotels in Mexico, but vice-versa? Sure, there are German towns in S. America. Where in the world can you find that wonderful Mexican "onda"? (Spanish slang for "vibe", onda literally means wave or ripple and "la onda" means "tune in".)

There is nothing more liberating than a week on the beach in a genuine Mexican hotel in a bona fide Mexican town with a perfect tropical climate, handmade margaritas, surfers gracefully riding great waves, and hippie expats mixing with long-time locals. Now I'm going to share one of Mexico's best-kept secrets, an act typically reserved for clients of "Changes in Latitude".

Puerto Escondido is home to one of the most extraordinary hotels I've discovered in Mexico. Should you ever find time to experience this bohemian surfer's paradise, stay at Hotel Santa Fe. The Presidential Suites are amazing if you really want to splurge, but the Master Suites are also fabulous. The restaurant is a vegetarian's dream, the grounds a lush paradise, and the hospitality is impressive even by Mexico's high service standards.

The hotel was founded 25 years ago by Robin Cleaver and his wife and friends. Robin's parents had retired in Guadalajara in the 60's and he discovered then-tiny Puerto Escondido while vagabonding about Mexico. The town has grown to 50,000 friendly residents but the costa chica onda remains. Indigenous Zapotecs and Mixtecs continue to live in the area ... in much the same manner as they lived 2,500 years ago, trading village-to-village, living off the land and the sea. Be sure to visit the villages neighboring Puerto Escondido on market day.

Puerto Escondido is a quintessential Mexican village ideally situated on a protected bay along Oaxaca's Pacific coast. It is home to coffee farms and fishermen. You can connect to a direct flight from D.F. to avoid the occasional political turmoil in Oaxaca City but allow 2 hours for your layover. While there, be sure to visit the Living Museum of Sea Turtles on Mazunte Beach. For news about forever peaceful Puerto Escondido, read the fabulous local web magazine El Sol de la Costa. Click here to learn more about Hotel Santa Fe.

S. America is Huge & other important lessons

2008-11-18T14:23:00.000-08:00

This is my first post of criticism from a travel client. It is constructive criticism and it arrives on the first anniversary of Changes In Latitude (after 11 years touring Latin America solely with produce executives, friends & family). While I would like to claim that I have created universally stellar experiences for all my travel clients this year, there is a first time for everything. I was reminded of three valuable lessons from clients recently returned from Peru, Chile & Argentina.

1. S. America is Huge

I was not assertive enough to dissuade these world travelers from biting off more than they could chew in S. America. I cautioned when I should have insisted they reconsider their long list of desired destinations. It is natural, especially when we travel very far, to want to see as much as possible of the region we're visiting. On the surface, more appears better. But with travel, it is often true that "less is more". I am reminded that trying to see too much can diminish the overall quality of any travel experience. I will insist on small bites because distances are great enough to be daunting for even the most seasoned travelers.

2. Even triple references do not ensure satisfaction.

It has been a rare occasion when clients have wanted to visit someplace I haven't been in Latin America. On this recent S. America trip, however, the clients wanted to visit the Peruvian Amazon. Having never been there, I called an old friend in Lima about the best Amazon Lodge. He replied, "there are only three good ones; Tahuayo Lodge is the best". I did some research and learned the owner had published a book about the Amazon. In addition, this lodge was named "One of the ten best wilderness lodges in the world" by Outside Magazine ... and this was only one of a dozen such accolades. With such positives, client satisfaction was virtually guaranteed, right? Wrong. An Amazon wilderness lodge is not for everyone. I'll use a more formal client questionnaire to better match people with places from now on.

3. Guide books are like casino bets

These particular clients did something I have never tried, and we can all learn from this one. They relied on Frommer's advice in S America in determining some of their desired destinations and restuarants. They were not satisfied with the results. Guide book advice can never be "all things to all people". Changes In Latitude serves upscale travelers, not "all people" In this case, Frommer's advice disappointed my clients. Travelers, think about the nature of guide books - they are highly subjective. You'll win some and lose some.

I was lucky to have local produce growers show me and my travel companions around Latin America for more than a decade. My goal is to provide that type of guidance to my clients. Today I was reminded that this goal will be a journey in itself.

Peace for Cuba 2009

2008-11-08T15:43:00.000-08:00

President-Elect Obama plans to heal U.S. relationships with neighbors in the Americas. He promises principled and sustained diplomacy with Latin American countries. This represents a return to productive relationships built by Mr. Clinton, damaged by Mr. Bush.

Mr. Obama plans to lift restrictions on family travel and remittances to Cuba. He will open a dialogue, tied to democratic reforms, toward easing embargo restrictions. Speaking in Miami for benefit of the Castro brothers, he said, “If you take significant steps toward democracy, beginning with the freeing of all political prisoners, we will take steps to begin normalizing relations”.

Mr. Bush increased restrictions for Cuba in 2004. A new generation of Cuban-Americans reject this hard-line approach. Mr. Bush refused dialogue with Raul Castro after he indicated a willingness to reform his government, a position Mr. McCain supported. This type of arrogant neglect caused voters to demand a more reasonable President be inaugurated. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results, and the embargo has changed nothing in 30 years.

Insanity will be replaced with reason come 2009. Mr. Obama favors diplomacy to “advance the interests of the United States and advance the cause of freedom for the Cuban people.” He stated in Miami, “I would never rule out a course of action that could advance the cause of liberty”. Citizens throughout the hemisphere have expressed to me how refreshing this is. Foreign leaders anticipate improved relations with the USA according to a review of comments made to the press in S. America, C. America & Mexico since November 4.

The last Cuban administration supported by the USA was run by a military leader named Batista who gained power in 1933. He retained power as a dictator for 25 years while financed by U.S. gangsters. Castro came to power with a coup in 1958 with popular support from the Cuban people. Long-term U.S. support for Batista's criminal regime is viewed as hypocrisy in the eyes of the Cuban people. Such hypocrisy has been a common theme in dozens of U.S. interventions in Latin America, many of which have socialist leaning governments today.

Cubans wonder why gambling, prostitution, and state-sponsored murder were supported by the U.S. for 25 years, but not socialism? Or they ask why the U.S. conferred prefence to a criminal dictator but not a revolutionary who deported their own gangsters back to Florida, New York & Las Vegas for prosecution? Castro ended Batista's monthly receipts of $1.28 million from Meyer Lansky's bagmen. The U.S. media deemed Fidel "a tropical Robin Hood" until the Cold War intervened.

Regardless, the embargo should have been abandoned when the Soviet’s abandoned Cuba. As a policy to encourage government reform, the embargo is a complete failure. The Cuban people never deserved increased suffering at the hands of their neighbor, Uncle Sam. Simply stated, government reform is the furthest thing from the minds of people struggling to survive. While this concept comes from the pages of Political Science 101, Mr. Bush evidently failed this course in favor of fraternity parties reminiscent of the mob's heyday in Havana.

For a detailed analysis of “How the mob owned Cuba and then lost it all to the revolution”, read Havana Nocturne by T.J. English. Thanks to Bobbi for this photo from her Cuban journey.

Obama gets Peruvian Shaman Vote

2008-11-01T11:26:00.000-07:00

Here we are in November, just days before electing our nation's 44th President. The spiritually-minded are wondering, who gets the shaman vote? For the answer to this question, we look to Peru.

Of 11 shamans in the Peruvian healing organization Apus-Inka, nine support Obama. The shaman group's leader, Juan Osco, is sure he is going to win. "Obama is growing stronger, I've seen that he has the spiritual support of Martin Luther King and John F. Kennedy to protect him", Osco intuits. "We have seen that if the election is not fair, there will be another global economic crisis, war and despair."

"He will win and he will change history. He is going to help all the Latinos living in the United States", adds Mary Gomez, a healer from Chiclayo. Apus-Inka held a cleansing ceremony on the beach in Lima this week using Andean spirit totems to prevent negative energies that could effect his election. Obama may be in Lima, Ohio this week, but he is receiving mighty supportive energy from Lima, Peru.

Thanks to Linda in Lima for this graphic and to Andrew Whalen for reporting this ceremony. Now, get out and vote!

Day of the Dead Voyage

2008-10-31T14:37:00.000-07:00

"Dia de los Muertos" is a holiday celebrated primarily in Mexico but also in Hispanic and African communities worldwide. Families honor memories of their departed with music, costumes, festively decorated sugar skulls, and altars to the dead with many candles. Families visit graves to leave the favorite foods and drinks of their departed. Loved ones are celebrated with stories, feasts, dancing, iconic skeletons, and always with good humor.

These ceremonies date back 3,000 years and began as a celebration of death as a voyage to a higher plane by the pre-Hispanic Olmecs & Zapotecs. The Aztecs celebrated for an entire month, honoring their goddess of death. The modern celebration occurs on the 1st and 2nd of November, fusing the pre-Hispanic celebration with two Catholic holidays - All Saint's Day & All Souls' Day. In Brazil it's a public holiday and Spain holds parades and festivals. If you'd like to participate in Dia de los Muertos ceremonies, there are several villages in Mexico with colorful celebrations worth attending.

My Grandmother departed this month, joining my Grandfather who passed four years ago this week. I will be toasting to their memories tomorrow. Rita & Ray, you are saints in my book!

Latin American Clown Convention

2008-10-23T20:18:00.001-07:00

For four days in D.F. aka "Mexico City", there are seminars and workshops for the region's best clowns. Recently, more women are clowning around at the convention - a world formerly dominated by men. Almost 30% of Mexico's 10,000 clowns are women.

Accordingt to Janet Rodriguez of Mexico, "When you have that spark within you, it makes it easier to fit in, but you have to learn dance, singing & child psychology to make people laugh."

If you are tired of the watching American clowns on the election year stage, turn your attention to the real deal at the 13th annual Latin American Clown Convention.

For insights from past years of this wonderful phenomenon, visit Stephania Silveria's blog at http://reconstructionblog.blogspot.com/2007/05/latin-america-clowns-convention.html

Photo courtesy of Eduardo Vedurgo. Enjoy!

Changes in Attitude: Left-leaning Hemisphere

2008-10-20T21:15:00.000-07:00

Add Ecuador to the growing list of nations leaning left in the Americas. Today, President Correa’s new left-leaning constitution was approved by a significant 64% margin. There are few right-leaning countries remaining in our hemisphere and Latin America is merely a microcosm of the global liberal/conservative contest.

In colonial times, the fear over liberalization was derived from fear by the ruling elite over sharing the land, wealth, and power they amassed through conquest and slavery. They chose to conserve their land, wealth & power, so they were conservative. Those seeking balance, retribution, fairness, (you decide) were liberal in their approach. The 21st Century finds Presidents Correa (Ecuador), Chavez (Venuzuela), Morales (Bolivia), Garcia (Peru) and Lula (Brazil), among others, liberalizing their countries.

A similar battle is waging in the USA today. Instead of colonizers, the right now represents U.S. corporations such as Bear Stearns, AIG, Lehman Brothers, Merrill Lynch, Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac. The CEO's of the nine major banks that taxpayers now partially own were paid $32.2 million last year, on average. On the retail end, we've seen similar gluttony. Global colonizers such as Wal-Mart entice young people from all over China to leave their family farms to slave in squalor in company-owned factories producing plastic gimcracks for voracious consumers, in the name of monopolistic ambitions, profit, and cheap consumer crap.

Consumer culture – isn’t this a crime against nature?

Regardless, corporations are paying billions to their leaders and shareholders, such as the Walton family, while a generation of indigenous peoples move away from their fields to barely subsist in polluted cities working for Fortune 100 companies producing unneccesary consumables. Whether it's a Nike sweatshop in Asia or a garment sweatshop in Latin America, CEO's are making hundreds times more than the workers.

Why grow food when you choke the planet in cheap plastic toys for “happy meals”? The children who throw away today’s toy tomorrow do not realize its half-life is 5000 years. This is the modern day conquest - pillaging once peaceful agrarian societies of their way of life to line the bank accounts of multinational corporate executives. The consequences are not tangibly different from colonization that occured centuries ago through slavery.

In this context, it is not hard to understand backlash against capitalism. "We need to reintroduce morality into capitalism" - Nicolas Sarkozy, President of France.

The USA is set to join the leftist movement next month by inaugarating a liberal to the White House on promises of increased regulation and an economy that works for people as well corporations. The U.S. Congress is already leaning left. Obama shuns lobbyist contributions and special interest money. His average contribution is $86 and he's received such donations from over 3 million voters. If you are surprised by this, read on.

There are three reasons our hemisphere continues to lean left, according to the book “Utopia Unarmed: The Latin American Left”:

1. The end of the Cold War removed the stigma of the left. The USA could no longer label leftist governments ‘communist sympathizers’.

2. Latin America's extreme concentration of wealth, income, power, and opportunity (among two percent of the population) meant that it would have to be governed from the left. “The combination of inequality and democracy tends to cause a movement to the left everywhere. Impoverished masses (98% in much of Latin America) vote for the type of policies that, they hope, will make them less poor.” – Jorge Castaneda

3. Real democracy will naturally lead to victories for the left. Wealth cannot be unfairly concentrated among those who must seek reelection in a land of fair elections, unless the rising tide truly does raise all ships or the voters can be duped. Voters like “Joe the plumber” are often duped into voting against their best interests by narcissists seeking the throne (versus seeking to serve).

For example, McCain keeps calling Obama a socialist, saying he wants to redistrubute wealth with his tax policies. This is either an attempt to dupe the voting public, or evidence of how little McCain understands the progressive income tax was introduced 95 years ago. Wealthy people have higher tax rates; poor people benefit from government programs while paying little to no tax. If we want to talk about socialist actions, Paul Volcker asks "How do we reprivatize institutions" that have been "socialized" by the Bush administration?

In this context, it is no surprise that corporate greed unveiled results in the masses saying “no” to conservative party staples such as obscene wage multiples for CEO’s who create huge taxpayer debts in their bonfire of the vanities. Anyone surprised by Obama’s popularity needs a refresher course in cultural anthropology. Everyone else already knows why the hemishpere is leaning left... we are so much more than consumers and too many corporations are acting like conquering colonists instead of good citizens.

James Bond returns to Latin America

2008-10-19T22:17:00.000-07:00

James Bond is returning to Latin America. Thanks to Cynthia Mulder in Panama for breaking this news from one of the film sites. If you recall many of the film series’ locations over the years, you’ll easily recall the common denominator - fantastic scenery. So it is not surprising to learn that we've already treated our clients to every locale in Bond's upcoming film, "Quantum of Solace" filmed in 2008.

Looking forward, it is natural to string the latest film’s Latin American sites together for one special Bond journey. We might not be the only outfit doing this, but our niche is upscale travel and our clients are already regulars at each of the film’s locations in Chile, Panama (impersonating Haiti and Bolivia) & Mexico. Channel your inner secret agent and enjoy the ride...

We begin in Chile. Built of adobe brick, San Pedro de Atacama is home to expatriates from all over the world. This oasis has been an important village since pre-Hispanic times. Here you'll find an impressive museum, exceptional cuisine, and dry desert air leading to stunning landscapes just outside of town. There is also the favorite destination of astronomers, Vicuna -home of two famous observatories. Cerro Mamulluca Observatory was designed for the public and offers spectacular programs for travelers awed by the area's crystal clear skies. Filming occured in Antofagasta, "Pearl of the North", Cobija, the Paranal Observatory & its ESO Hotel.

From Chile, we’ll jet to Panama. The Bond film visits Casco Viejo. This is the 2nd city site built in the 16th Century to replace the original site burned in pirate raids. Modern Panama City has been called the “Hong Kong of the western hemisphere” but in this film it is depicted as Bolivia. With cobblestone streets and charmingly decayed colonial architecture, Casco Viejo could be many places. It’s a classic Latin American barrio, gentrified as it is. From Panama City we'll visit Isla Taboga to stay with my friend Cynthia who owns Cerrito Tropical with her husband Hiddo. It is a marvelous journey from the city to the island, and a special destination for viewing Panama City from a comfortable distance.

On the other end of the Panama Canal is Colon on the Caribbean, which serves as Haiti for the film and the harbor at Fort Sherman where the boat chase sequences were filmed. Closer than Haiti, there lies a quintessential Caribbean hideaway just a short hop from Colon. It’s the archipelago of Bocas del Toro. We’ll exit Panama after a few days in this bohemian hideaway via Costa Rica and continue north.

Our journey ends in Baja California, Mexico. This is where Bond's aerial action sequences were flimed. Here the desert landscape is almost lunar and very stark and dramatic. Our favorite location in Baja Sur is Todos Santos, where a friend of ours grows organic fruit. Within one day’s drive there are beaches and landscapes that seem other-worldly. To the north, Loreto is an hour’s flight from San Diego. Todos Santos & Loreto are upscale seaside villages very different from the mega-resorts many tourists frequent in Mexico.

Allow 2-3 weeks to enjoy all of the film's destinations. It’s true, 007 does not linger long in any one place. You, on the other hand, will not stay as long as the film crew resided in each location. One could say you will be stirred, not shaken. Sorry, James.

Hemispheric Relations

2008-10-14T19:48:00.000-07:00

The balance of power in the Americas has been shifting for more than a decade. N. America’s clout in C. & S. America is at its lowest point in decades of decline. The dollar still goes further when it goes south. However, the USA’s economic meltdown has led to the raising of Latin American eyebrows. For decades we have preached about financial austerity measures. Our neighbors now question the value of economic advice from an economy reeling wildly out of control.

South, Central & North America have each had their share of revolution and civil wars since the 18th Century. Recently, unrest in Latin America has been too often instigated by the USA. Who can name one major Latin American country where the U.S. government did not meddle, finance opposition governments, send covert operatives, or otherwise intervene in affairs outside our borders? We've been a bully with our neighbors, in too many cases. The Bush Doctine of overt pre-emption is just a new twist on a long history of covert pre-emptive actions.

Congress continues to fund intervention in Latin America in its unwinnable “war on drugs”. Yet, the current administration can’t even take care of domestic problems and is running up record deficits. We are overextended and in debt to foreign governments, which was once the norm in Latin America. Our neighbors see the USA as increasingly unreliable and, when it comes to advice about their financial markets, they see the U.S. position as hypocritical.

How does this effect tourism? First of all, we must go beyond the U.S. State Dept. to get a useful travel advisory. Visiting host country's websites is quite helpful. For objective advice in English, visit websites from the governments of Canada, the UK, and Australia. We do this for our clients. We find our own State Dept’s information to be the least useful, the most biased, its not geographically specific, and its not updated frequently enough.

In my work, we don’t rely on vague State Dept. advisories. We prefer detailed, up-to-date analysis on protests or conflicts taking place in Latin America. We prefer pertinent details and nuanced analysis. The U.S. State Dept. plays politics with travel advisories, knowing that tourism is a key revenue source for rival leftist governments in Latin America. Do we have a problem with peaceful protests of misguided government policies here or there? Not necessarily. Does the State Dept. use objections about a government’s policies to overstate a travel advisory? Yes.

The result of this hemispheric shift is positive for tourists. North, Central & South Americans are becoming closer neighbors on economic terms. We have a shrinking middle class. We're engaged in nasty wars. Our economies are crippled. We’re facing the same struggles and this brings people together. The current administration’s misguided policies have eroded our economic standing in the world. We’re slipping from the “1st world” to the 2nd as Latin America has been reaching up from “3rd world” to the 2nd. We’re meeting our neighbors in the middle, slowly but surely.

The poverty rate in Mexico has dropped from 21 percent to 18.5 percent over the past 10 years, said a report published by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD). The poverty rates in Turkey are 17.5 percent and in the United States 17 percent. Denmark and Sweden are with less inequality with only 5.5 percent of poor people. Out of dozens of countries in the OECD study, only Turkey and Mexico have more poverty to the USA. We are not even close to the top of the list on this measure because too many of U.S. workers earn less than half the median wage - a two class system is growing and the middle class is shrinking. Denmark and Sweden are 1st world countries. The USA and Turkey have the same levels of poverty, a level very close to Mexico's.

Approach the USA's 2nd world reality frankly, with humility, and you’ll make many friends when traveling. Increasingly, we're in the same boat and it may be a banana boat. According to Micheal Shifter, an Inter-American Dialogue Analyst in DC, "Latin Americans have every reason to view the U.S. as a banana republic. U.S. lectures to Latin Americans about excess greed and lack of accountability have long rung hollow, but today they sound even more ridiculous."

Bush has the lowest ranking of any U.S. President in the history of polling. In Latin America, his poll numbers are as low as Venezuela’s Hugo Chávez and Cuba’s Fidel Castro, places where people have little control over their own lives and where the middle class is nonexistent. What lesson will we take from this emerging reality?

The USA has done much good in the hemisphere, and more than a little harm. Now, more than ever, it is time to work together with our neighbors for a better future, and treat them the way we would like to be treated. For a related report, see the one below about Argentina…

Travel Visas & Entry Fees

2008-10-14T15:23:00.000-07:00

At present, U.S. tourists enjoy Argentina without paying an entry fee or applying for a visa. That is about to change.

Argentina is implementing new fees and visa application rules for foreign visitors for the New Year. The Interior Minister is responding to a perceived act of injustice since his countrymen pay $134 to enter the USA. Florencio Randazzo said the new fee applies to visitors from 22 countries charging fees to Argentines, adding "This is an act of justice. The fee is reciprocal; it is not restrictive in nature, not at all”.

The new fees will generate $40 million annually. Austrialia, Canada, the UK and many EU countries are being targeted. Randazzo said “the world is showing an increasingly negative attitude toward migration”. Brazil, Bolivia and Chile have implemented such policies. $134 USD is a much greater expense for Argentines than it is for citizens of more westernized economies.

It’s as if the world's citizens have been playing a game of ‘musical chairs’ for many centuries. Now, the music is about to stop. Hurry up, sit down. Fight for the last chair. Left out? You lose the game.

This blogger is nomadic. Many people are, by nature, nomadic. There must be coooperation among neighboring countries to drop the fees and the travel visa bureacracy. Immigration rules must be reformed to make the process more transparent and expedient.

Latin America via Edmonds

2008-10-02T13:44:00.000-07:00

The side entrance to our office was lost in a dead sea of beige-painted bricks until Los Angeles-based muralist Carlie Monnier jazzed things up for us.

Here you see her rendition of our logo and a mural which invites visitors to stroll off the alley right into a Latin American pueblo scene. We're a proud sponsor of Edmond's monthly art walks but Carlie's stylings will delight visitors daily. To see more of this amazing artist's work, visit http://www.cmurals.com/

Come visit us any 3rd Thursday from 5-8pm to discuss your next change in latitude and visit 30 neighboring art venues all within walking distance of Main Street in downtown Edmonds.

Bossa Nova Postcard from Brazil

2008-08-20T20:09:00.000-07:00

Bossa nova is the bolero of the beaches in Brazil. There is not one citizen in this amazing country that did not take time to grieve the passing of Dorival Caymmi when he died in Rio de Janeiro Saturday.

Antonio Carlos Jobim once commented: “Dorival is a universal genius. He picked up the guitar and orchestrated the world.” Dorival was instrumental in birthing bossa nova from its samba womb, and he sang about love with a passion that still makes the world swoon.

At 16, Dorival wrote “O Que É Que a Baiana Tem?” ... “What Is It About Brazilian Women?”. Which reminds me of one particular Brazilian woman, "The Girl from Ipanema". Every music lover knows this bossa nova classic, but who knows "The Girl" who, "when she passes, each one she passes goes ... ah."?

Long after Dorival immortalized Brazilian women in song, Jobim fell in love with the image of the young woman who introduced the bikini to Ipanema. Imagine the synchronicity, for Jobim didn't know this at the time. An anonymous young lady walked daily past Jobim's table at Rio's beach bar "Rua Montenegro", circa 1962. Her name was Heloísa Eneida Menezes Paes Pinto. She passed Rua Montenegro daily while fetching groceries for her mother. There sat Antonio Carlos Jobim, drinking and writing some of the best music ever recorded, along with his lyricist friend Vinicius de Moraes.

To be honest, Heloísa, at the age of 63 years, turned my head before I knew who she was! She is the picture of sensual beauty today. Heloísa runs a dress shop in Sao Paulo. She is still married to the love of her life, Fernando Pinheiro. Back in the 60's her practical mother kept Hollywood from cashing in on her daughter's sudden fame after the song she inspired became a worldwide sensation. Heloísa Pinheiro is now a grandmother.

Dorival Caymmi has now passed. Yet, as the man who synchronized the rhythm of bossa nova with the women of Brazil's beaches (or vice versa) Dorival would certainly agree, in any language...

"When she walks, she's like a samba that swings so cool ... sways so gently."

We will never forget you Dorival. Bravo!

Save THIS Rainforest

2008-07-31T10:05:00.000-07:00

Ecuador guide Dani Leigh encourages support of the Third Millenium Alliance, whose mission is to regenerate, reforest, and restore the Chocó-Manabí Biological Corridor which stretches from the Darien in C. America through Columbia into Ecuador.

The Third Millenium Alliance deserves your support to purchase 1000 acres to preserve the last remnant of rainforest in and surrounding the Jama-Coaque Reserve in western Ecuador by the end of the year. This acreage is in danger of being clear-cut if it is not purchased soon. Donations to this international nonprofit are tax-deductible.

Learn more at http://www.3malliance.org/ and click "Be part of the solution" to donate online.

U.S. Foreign Policy in Latin America

2008-07-20T21:23:00.000-07:00

The following excerpts are from Nadia Martinez, a native of Panama and an associate fellow with the Institute for Policy Studies in Washington, D.C. Ms. Martinez recently became a U.S. citizen and wrote about "Respecting Our Neighbors to the South" in Yes! Magazine, Summer 2008.

"The United States become notorious during the 20th century for backing brutal dictators under the guise of preventing a communist takeover of Latin America. Past military interventions in Guatemala, Nicaragua, Panama, and elsewhere, and support of repressive regimes like that of Augusto Pinochet in Chile have made Latin Americans skeptical of U.S. motives. More recently, U.S. policy toward the region has focused on two issues: drugs and free trade. Both policies have harmed the economic and political lives of the region.

Today, Latin America is undergoing a transformation as indigenous and social movements are rising up and demanding a say about the future. Elected leaders in Argentina, Bolivia, Ecuador, Nicaragua, Venezuela, and to varying degrees, Brazil, Chile, and Uruguay are asserting themselves as symbols of an independent and even defiant Latin America. And votes in those countries are overwhelmingly backing them.

So how should the United States respond? A successful policy begins with respect. The U.S. should give the elected governments the space to succeed rather than flooding discredited opposition movements with aid in an attempt to influence elections and undermine governments as they are doing in Bolivia and Venezuela.

Respect can be shown also through abandoning our insistence on so-called "free" trade policies, which favor transnational corporations over the environment and the rights of workers. Instead, we can join the region's move toward fair trade policies that support sustainable development in poor countries and protect small farmers from unfettered competition with heavily subsidized agribusiness. Our trade policies should be based on the idea that our hemisphere is more secure when all peoples can develop diversified economies that meet local needs first, and raise people out of poverty and hopelessness. Strong local economies would also reduce pressure on poor people to migrate, easing much of the illegal immigration in the United States.

Respect can be extended by ending the senseless war on coca farmers, which has fueled conflict and human rights abuses. Instead, we could help countries deal with drug trafficking, money laundering, and other organized crime through good policing - if they request the help."

The time has passed for heavy-handed interventionist policy, especially in our own hemisphere. Read more from Nadia Martinez about What the Rise of Democratic Movements in Latin America Means for the Rest of the World.

Cuba's UNESCO office

2008-07-15T19:05:00.000-07:00

UNESCO just added a new cultural site to its list of 878 “World Heritage Sites”. It’s in the historic Centre of Camagüey, the birthplace of famous poet Nicolás Guillén. Santa María del Puerto del Príncipe (now Camagüey) was one of the seven villages founded by the Spaniards in the16th century in Cuba.

Guillén was a pioneer of "poesía negra" a mestizaje poetry that joined black and white cultural elements in a drum-like pentameter, to express life in Cuba. One of his favorite poems, "Tengo" is translated here.

UNESCO is hosting a National Workshop on the safeguarding of intangible cultural heritage in Cuba. For more information, contact Director Herman Van Hooff at habana@unesco.org,
Administrative Officer Ian Sanchez at i.sanchez@unesco.org, or

UNESCO Office Havana at:
Blanca Patallo Emperador,
Calzada N° 551 - Esq. a D,
Vedado Havana, Cuba

Phone 537/322 840; 327 741; 327 638
Fax 537/333 144
Email b.patallo@unesco.org.cu

Mendoza, Argentina Field Notes

2008-06-13T08:47:00.000-07:00

Wine lovers visiting Mendoza leave with a new appreciation for Malbec. This grape came to Argentina from Bordeaux, where it is cultivated for blending. In the Mendoza wine province, at the base of the Andes, the growing season is much longer than in Bordeaux region of France. The soil is still rich after 150 years hosting these grapes and Malbec is cultivated by many vineyards as a single-grape wine.

The result is that Malbec from Argentina is a sweeter, softer bodied wine which ages better than French Malbec. Mendoza’s extra sunshine contributes to these improved characteristics by allowing more time on the vine - even after the sugar levels peak. Most of Argentina’s top wines come from Mendoza where amazing Malbecs are priced around $12-$15. Pair these with local dishes such as Patagonian grass-fed beef, goat, local trout, or young pork slow cooked outdoors.

My favorite downtown restaurant/wine bar was Bistro M at the Park Hyatt Hotel. Downtown you’ll find many excellent bistros filled with students from every continent staying in Mendoza to study Spanish at the language school COINED.

For dining at a winery, 1884 is also very good and the bar is as gorgeous as the Portenos who come to Mendoza just to dine with Francis Mallman. Find it at Bodega Escorihuela, http://www.escorihuela.com.ar/ There are too many vineyards to mention here, but I work with a very knowledgeable local guide who can show you the best of the “Ruta de los Vinos”. Another guide prefers adventure in the picturesque Andes Mountains, which is a good antidote to sulfite overload. Exploring on your own is not too difficult with modest Spanish fluency.

I recommend staying at La Posada Robles de Besares, a beautiful private home in a peaceful setting at Chacras de Coria, in the heart of Mendoza. The wine cellar is excellent for relaxing in the evening. Breakfast is served in a charming garden. There are tennis courts, a gym and Jacuzzi. Reiki treatments are also available onsite. For details visit http://www.roblesdebesares.com.ar/

The local Syrah’s are also very good, as are whites from many provinces in Argentina, but I’ll save these for another post.

Obama: A Better Neighbor for Latin America

2008-06-09T12:59:00.001-07:00

Barack Obama is now the presumptive Democratic nominee and is likely to defeat Republican John McCain in this year's race for the presidency. What type of friend will Mr. Obama be to our neighbors in the hemisphere? It is a good time to consider Mr. Obama's positions and statements concerning Latin America:

(Photo Credit: Alex Brandon/Associated Press)

Mr. Obama recognizes that we have neglected our neighbors. "As has been the case throughout the world, our standing in the Americas has suffered as a result of the misguided policies and actions of the Bush Administration. The United States can ill afford this deterioration of our standing. With each passing day, we draw closer together to our neighbors to the south. This convergence creates new challenges, but it also opens the door to a more hopeful future."

Mr. Obama will make Latin American relations a higher priority; he sees Mr. Bush's declaration of 2007 as 'the year of engagement with the Americas' as too little, too late. "One year of engagement out of seven is simply not good enough. In light of the Bush Administration’s woeful record, creating false expectations does more harm than good. We must be realistic about the challenges we face, and what we are doing to address them. We must devote our full time, and our respectful attention to our relations within the hemisphere. "

Neither of this year's candidates for President could have a weaker energy policy than Mr. Bush put forth. To his credit, Mr. Obama recognizes Latin America's energy policy successes. "Brazil’s more than 30 years of renewable fuel technology investments allowed it to achieve energy independence last year. Ethanol now accounts for 40 percent of Brazil’s fuel usage. More than 80 percent of cars sold in Brazil today are flex fuel vehicles—capable of running on gasoline, ethanol, or a mixture thereof. Greater Brazilian production of renewable fuels could boost sustainable economic development throughout Latin America, and reshape the geopolitics of energy in the hemisphere, reducing the oil-driven influence of Venezuela's Hugo Chavez. The more inter-hemispheric production and use of ethanol and other biofuels occurs, and the more such indigenously-produced renewable fuels are used to replace fossil fuels, the better it is for our friends in the hemisphere."

Mr. Bush has been a fair-weather neighbor. Mr. Obama envisons a more altruistic approach to Latin American relations. "In Uruguay, President Bush has the opportunity to forge closer ties with President Tabaré Vázquez, and to show that the United States is ready, willing, and able to work productively with democratic-left governments. The United States is seen as supporting democracy when it produces a desired result. It is vital to reverse that trend."

Intelligent people realize the war on drugs is a poor use of taxpayer resources, as is building prisons to house nonviolent drug users. Mr. Obama understands that billions of dollars in US aid has gone toward war profiteering and the spraying of poisons on villages in S. America to kill crops such as coca. These herbicides poison local water tables. Mr. Obama is against Plan Columbia. He is not the first candidate to use drugs, but he is the first to be honest about it. Mr. Obama proposes giving first-time, non-violent offenders a chance to serve their sentence in rehabilitation programs rather than prisons. He understands that monies would be better invested in reducing the market in the US through prevention and recovery programs. Mr. Obama has pledged to fund job training, substance abuse and mental health counseling to ex-offenders, rather than militarization of Columbia and Mexico. Bill Clinton answered a question about his drug use by saying he had tried marijuana, but "didn't inhale." When asked, "Did you inhale?" Mr. Obama replied, "That was the point." It has been said that such honesty speaks to a generational change in politics, that new voters are more concerned with their leader's truthfulness than with their youthful transgressions. (John K. Wilson, 2007)

Mr. Bush's solution to the immigration question is to build fences between the USA and Mexico. This appallingly short-sighted and damaging act is a return to backward Berlin-wall thinking (and a billion dollar gift to Mr. Bush's contractor buddies in Texas). Mr. Obama voted against the Coburn Amendment (SA 1311) to S. 1348 to increase border control by requiring construction of the border fence. He prefers a policy approach. "The relationship between the United States and Mexico is among our most important in the world. But our complex relationship with Mexico has become captive to a single issue: the immigration debate in our country. There is consensus that our immigration system is broken. It is past time to fix it, and I am proud of my own support for a workable solution."

In summary, Mr. Obama will be a much better neighbor than Mr. Bush. He should visit Latin America early in his administration, and often. Mr. Obama has pledged to do so, adding... "We ignore Latin America at our own peril."

What is the sense in ignoring our neighbors until they can help us? I submit that this is ugly behavior. Unlike Mr. Bush in Austin, Mr. Obama helped his neighbors in Chicago before being elected to office. I am confident that he will expand upon this neighborliness when he moves to D.C.

The World Is Upside Down

2008-06-01T22:06:00.001-07:00

Think about S. America. Now N. America. Remember Bob Dylan's observation: these times, they are a changin'?

A paradigm shift of considerable proportion is required by the current global rebalancing of economic power. I strongly recommend Roger Cohen's recent column from Rio de Janeiro for a glimpse at this shift. Mr. Cohen's analyses suggest "the developed world depends on the developing world, rather than the other way around". He invites us... "to understand it, invert your thinking". Here is the link:

www.nytimes.com/2008/06/02/opinion/l02cohen.html?ref=opinion

Brazil's Indigenous Rally

2008-04-18T12:48:00.001-07:00

Goty Pataxó, originally uploaded by Kaká.

Up to 1000 indigenous peoples from tribes such as Goty's are campaigning this week outside of Brazil's Congress in Brasilia. Brazil turned 500 at the start of this decade yet its native peoples feel like foreigners in their own land.

The name of the event translates to “Camp Free Earth”. The goal is improving government policies toward peoples of the 20 Brazilian states represented. Brazil’s President and five of his ministers are attending today, hearing requests to develop a sustainable socio-economic model that offers an alternative to today's globalization that puts profits before people and humanity.

There are more than 200 tribes with roughly one-half million people remaining from a population of three million at the time of first contact by Europeans. Some tribes in the Amazon continue a policy of voluntary isolation from the modern world. If you find this fascinating, read this bulletin from the world rainforest movement: www.wrm.org.uy/bulletin/119/Brazil.html

For more information including opportunities for you to make a difference in Brazil’s Landless Workers Movement, visit: www.mstbrazil.org/?q=about ; or, to learn more before cultural interactions with indigenous tribes during your travel, visit: www.socioambiental.org/pib/indexenglish.htm and www.povosindigenas.org.br/pib/english/whwhhow/index.shtm

“No matter where we go, there we are.” – Don Ronaldo

Value Vacations

2008-04-14T19:07:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

Where is your perfect destination? What makes a travel destination perfect? No matter your price range, value is a worthwhile consideration. Why pay 50% more for anything, especially upscale accommodations at peerless destinations?

Consider what you'll pay for 2 weeks in Hawaii, Europe, Canada, or Australia. $4000 per person, plus air, for budget accommodations in a group of 26 people. For the same amount of money and time exploring Latin America without the herd, you can live in high style. The photo here is our favorite place in Hawaii. We love Hawaii, but what about value?

This month Kiplingers polled 2200 travelers about their annual vacation plans asking, "Have high gas prices and the economic downturn forced you to reconsider travel plans for this summer?"

39% say no.
23% say they'll vacation closer to home.
31% say they won't be taking a trip this year.
7% are not sure.

We have good news for the 61% of you who are reconsidering your vacations. Latin America is nearby and full of incredible spas, nature-based resorts, and upscale countryside destinations. Stay out of the cities and you'll enjoy luxury vacations for the price others are paying to be herded like cattle into modest quarters.

Or you'll stay twice as long for the same investment. Or maybe you'll take your entire family for the price of a couple's vacation in N. America? Cost is not the most important vacation consideration, but value ranks high in my book. Ask me where I'm vacationing this year, and how it compares to my favorite places - even in Asia - on any measure. Latin America is an incredible value right now - on every measure.

Peace & Prosperity,
Mango Steve

Photos by Maria Cristina Berg

2008-03-26T09:44:00.000-07:00

We arranged a trip for Seattle photographer Maria Cristina Berg. She surpised her husband with a Changes In Latitude trip to Belize this month. She returned last week with wonderful photos and gave us permission to share them in a slideshow. The highlight of their trip was sailing the atolls and snorkeling the reef. She also captured the peaceful beauty of Ambergris Caye. Enjoy!

Latin Jazz Festival

2007-12-11T17:18:00.000-08:00

This report comes from a client who recently returned from Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. She asked for something unique and, based on her interests, we recommended the 4th annual Jazz Fest on the Mayan Riviera. This trip was a last-minute suprise for extended family. Family members arrived in Port Townsend for Thanksgiving with plans to stay in Washington all week. The day after the dishes were cleaned, the entire family boarded a flight for Mamitas Beach Club on Playa del Carmen.

While this area is famed for it's beaches, jungles, and Mayan archealogical sites, the Jazz Festival has already grown to be one of the top annual jazz events worldwide. Performers this year included Grammy award winners from Brazil and the U.S. Young & old family members were equally impressed to find Tower of Power and George Benson at the beach, under the stars, with a sea breeze that carried the music with style.

Based on the reviews we received, we recommend booking accomodations for this event early in 2008. Suprise those you are most thankful for and give the gift of travel.

Peace & Prosperity,

Mango Steve

Avocados & Latin America

2007-10-31T17:31:00.000-07:00

Latin American Avocado Growers & California Fires

Avocados are native to Mexico, C. & S. America. While imports from these regions have grown since 1994's Nafta reduced tariffs, California's San Diego County supplies most of U.S. demand. This summer's fires have damaged 20% of San Deigo's 26,000 acres of avocados. This paves the way for increased imports this year. Pictured here are workers in Uruapan, Michoacan packing avocados for export.

Unfortunately the Chilean avocado crop is down 50% due to a hard freeze in July. This paves the way for Mexico to dramatically increase it's exports to the U.S. Until a few years ago, San Diego County's grower's associations were effective in blocking Mexico's crop through bogus claims of fruit fly issues. The real issue was always the grower's (largely doctors & lawyers) desire to make a killing over-charging for their products in the absence of competition.

There was a similar move by mango growers in Florida to block Mexican mangos from entering the U.S. They didn't want to see consumers enjoy a superior product for a reasonable price, because they couldn't compete. Japan, the masters of incoming quality control processes, repeatedely testified to the U.S. Congress about the absence of any fruit fly issues. Finally the tariffs and restrictions on Mexican mangos and avocados have been lifted. This year, for the first time in 100 years, Mexican avocado growers can ship their product throughout the U.S., even to California.

The earliest record of avocados comes from Peru. A mummy from 800 BC was uncovered with avocado seeds. They were most likely buried with the dead due to aphrodisiac qualities that could prove useful in the afterlife. The Aztec word for avocado is Ahuacuatl meaning testicle tree. Note the fruit of the tree hangs in pairs. Cortez conquered Mexico in 1519 to find avocados everywhere. Today, the state of Michoacan is the avocado capital of the Americas.

Not until 1926 did Mr. Hass discovered the avocado that bears his name. Today there are more than 40,000 acres of avocados in California, over 60% in San Diego County. Before the fire, California had been expected to harvest 338 million pounds this season, according to the Hass Avocado Board.

Chile would have shipped 260 million pounds to the U.S. but July's freeze will limit Chile's exports to about half that amount. Chile's avocados often have more oil than California's, making for a smoother texture. Chilean avocados are grown in the Central Valley, mainly between Petorca and Rancagua. But the transit distance to the U.S. is not easy of this delicate fruit.

Mexico is now expected to ship 425 million pounds this year, a 24% increase over last year's exports. Both avocado and mango consumption have tripled in the U.S. in the past 10 years, and the best place to grow these tropical delights is "south of the border" ... for quality, yield, and price.

Yes, I'm a travel consultant now, but it's fun to keep my pulse on the tropical fruit industry I knew so well during one magical decade of my youth.

Ciao! Mango Steve

Keep the tropics tropical

2007-10-07T16:39:00.001-07:00

Our Carbon Karma

Travel is good for your soul and for humanity, but it is hard on our ecology and the environment. Airline travel creates a significant proportion of the world's global warming pollution, and it's growing faster than any other single source. Flying roundtrip from Seattle to C. America (7,000 miles) creates over one ton of carbon dioxide emissions, per passenger.

Changes In Latitude partners with TerraPass to help balance this equation. Changes In Latitude purchases greenhouse gas reduction offsets in the form of one Intercontinental Terrapass per client, which covers per passenger emissions from 20,000 miles of jet travel. TerraPass works by funding clean energy and greenhouse gas reduction projects throughout the U.S., including wind farms and biomass energy. TerraPass iis ndependently audited by the non-profit Center for Resource Solutions, the leading certification agency in the renewable energy market.

If you would like to make an even greater impact, purchase a TerraPass to balance out the global warming impact of your driving and home energy use, or make a donation to Trees for the Future, winner of the United Nation's Earth Trusteeship Award. Trees for the Future plants trees in the humid tropics. Each tree absorbs one ton of carbon dioxide over it’s average lifetime of 40 years. Reforestation is part of the solution.

Join the global movement and “Take the Pledge” designed by Nobel Peace Prize winner Al Gore to solve the climate crisis.

Keep the tropics tropical!
~ Mango Steve

Casco Antigua

2007-08-27T12:18:00.000-07:00

Modern Panama City, home to 8 of Latin America´s 10 tallest skyscapers, is actually the third city. Casco Antigua is the 2nd Panama City, and my personal favorite. It is an architectual wonder. Pictured here is the plaza inside the governor´s palace. The 1st city was sacked by Henry Morgan. This story is told in the great pirate book entitled ¨The Sack of Panama". The original city site, Panama Viejo, had been founded in 1519 and abandoned in favor of a more defensible site, now called Casco Antigua, in 1673. You can and should visit both. Casco Antigua provides a stark contrast as you walk many blocks of magnificent old edificios while gazing across the bay at the modern steel and glass skyscape. Here you will find cobblestone and brick streets, wonderful museums, cafes, art galleries, gift shops, and many artisans displaying their work. I recommend you save at least a half day to stroll the streets of Casco Antigua ... or several half-days, if you have the time. I am returning this evening to enjoy the sunset.

Coffee Heaven

2007-08-20T14:29:00.000-07:00

Coffee from Panama has won the international cupping contest during seven of the last 11 years. Three times the winner was Cafe Ruiz, which we toured today. The other two winners are Cafe Lerida & Cafe Geisha. These small-scale family farms choose the environmentally friendly, shade grown technique. Coffee is grown beneath fruit and native hardwood trees. In this picture from Cafe Ruiz you see a hummingbird nest in the coffee tree.

Cafe Ruiz is located in the Boquete valley, pictured below. Boquete is situated in the rainforest of the fertile western highlands of Panama. Here the cloud forest´s abundant moisture and the volcanic soil combine with ideal growing conditions to produce some of the world´s best coffee. Panama is at the same latitude as Ethiopia which is home to the Arabica tree, the oldest and best tasting species of coffee in the world.

Coffee is harvested by hand in Boquete, from October through March. There is amazing attention to quality through the following 12-step process, according to our guide Israel of Casa Ruiz:

Selection by hand of only ripe beans.
Sorting by density with water. Beans that float indicate damage from insects, fungus, or sunlight, so only the beans that sink are utilized. Floaters are sold to other companies which put their brand on the coffee - Cafe Ruiz will not.
Pulping to remove the liquid that would lead to over fermentation.
Fermentation
Washing
Drying
Resting to age the beans for 4 months to allow for detection of defects that passed through the processes above.
Peeling off the parchment.
Sorting by size (there are 13 sizes), density by air (weight), and color. Only the green beans go forward. Yellow indicates the bean was picked too soon, black too late, and blue or red indicate fungus.
The good sizes are mixed back together.
Batch roasting to allow for selection by taste.
Final grading

There are three grades:

Specialty - for export. This grade constitutes 80% of the yield of Casa Ruiz farms. There are 11 major farms and many other small, family farms which bring their beans to Casa Ruiz for processing.

Premium - This grade receives all the processing above, except for color processing, and is not exported.

Standard - This grade is also for the domestic market.

The most award-winning farm in the Casa Ruiz enterprise is La Berlina, which sells for $25 - $50 per pound, at the farm, depending on the yield in any given year. It consistently places in French, USA, and Panamanian cupping competitions. I bought some of this for my friend Seth, who is a coffee aficionado, and will post his remarks soon.

Cafe Geisha has sold for up to $130 per pound, at the farm. Sorry Seth, I can´t afford it!

Cafe Ruiz doesn´t export roasted coffee, but they do roast. We saw the company´s first roaster - a bowl that was placed in a fire, their first roasting machine, from France, and every machine they have used since then. Five roasts are observed. Approximate times follow:

Gourmet - 13 minutes
European - 14 minutes
Latin - 15 minutes
Italian - 18 minutes
French - 20 minutes, at which point the beans lose all subtle flavors and become like Starbuck´s beans - burnt.

We had the pleasure of meeting Plinio Ruiz, son of the 85-year old Plinio Ruiz who was the 2nd generation of coffee growers behind his father who homesteaded in Boquete in the 1890´s.

Join us in October and we´ll tour the fields, processing plants, roasting room, and cafe!

To buy coffee from C. America in the USA, roasted by my friend Seth the same day he ships it to you, visit http://www.uniquecoffee.com/ (Seth stocks Cafe Ruiz when available.)

Isla Cañas

2007-08-05T08:08:00.000-07:00

Thousands of sea turtles nest on Isla Cañas every year between August and October. This island is a marine preserve near Panama´s southernmost tip on the Azuero Peninsula. Visitors are welcomed at an intepretive center before heading to the beach. We watched this beautiful pageant after a horse-drawn carriage ride along the beach. After dark, the Hawksbill turtes dig a nest with their fins and lay 80 - 100 eggs each. Green, loggerhead, and sometimes leatherback turtles also nest here. The mothers disguise their nests on the moonlit beach and return to the sea while their eggs incubate in the warm sand. The entire process takes less than 30 minutes ... locating a site, digging the hole, laying the eggs, filling the hole, tamping the ground, and covering the site. They will return before the eggs hatch. Visitors in October will be greeted by baby turtles. This tour returns to the mainland after midnight. We overnight at Playa Venao, one of Panama´s best surfing beaches. Surfers, bring your boards!

La Amistad International Park - World Heritage Site

2007-08-01T06:46:00.000-07:00

Amazingly, you can boat all the way from Panama´s Bocas del Toro up the Rio Changuinola and connect to the Rio Teribe to reach the rainforest by water. The Naso bring sustainable agriculture to new heights. The Naso Kingdom is the last kingdom in the Americas. Each family farms what it needs and there are also communal farms. Here a raft carries extra produce for sale to Caribbean communities down river.

A journey into a Naso home brings shared stories, songs, dances, and food. Pure happiness and pride is evident in the absence of machines. The rainforest provides the Naso everything needed to sustain a good life. The Naso political system is a model with much to offer to the world. This is an excellent destination for children to compare and contrast the simple life with the technological life. Mine were inspired, not to give up their computers, but to view their importance in a different context.

Bastimentos National Marine Park

2007-07-30T11:32:00.000-07:00

One of the highlights of Panama´s Bocas del Toro is snorkeling in the coral forest in the National Marine Reserve. There is also an interpretive trail hike into the island, lunch hanging over the Caribbean, and a long boat ride through the many islands that make up the archipelago. The beach at our snorkeling site was as perfect as any I´ve found. - Mango Steve

Bocas del Toro

2007-07-30T11:22:00.001-07:00

This Caribbean paradise is little known but it´s catching on fast since long-time visitors to Costa Rica discovered Panama´s Bocas del Toro has more to offer ...without the crowds. We stayed on Isla Careneros but there are many islands offering dozens of family-run lodging options. Water taxis outnumber cars in the islands 100 to 1. Only the main island has cars, but we walked from the airport to the water taxi terminal and saved $1. - Mango Steve

Welcome!

2007-05-25T20:17:00.001-07:00

This is the dawn of my travel blog which will provide "digital postcards" from paradise beginning in August 2007.